November is a good time to plant a bare root tree or shrub. Although you can plant a potted tree at any time, it needs more careful cosseting during the first year, making sure it never dries out.
And remember you have a much more limited choice: nurseries and garden centres provide a much wider range of cultivars as bare root.
Bare rooted trees should be planted from now till March, while they are dormant. This prevents the shock of transplant, where leaves drop and the tree is too stressed to grow new ones so would probably die.
But a dormant tree settles in undisturbed, ready to grow away in the spring.
Late autumn planting allows for some fresh root growth, even during virtual dormancy, and this gives it a head start in the spring.
Reputable nurseries and garden centres carry a wide range of cultivars, but to be sure you get the one you want, place an order very soon.
The nursery will lift and despatch your order when weather conditions permit.
Once lifted, a tree or shrub should not be exposed to frost and the roots must be kept moist. Nursery trees should arrive in good condition and you can usually wait up to a few days before planting.
It goes without saying you should never buy a tree at a garden centre if the bare roots are exposed and dry.
If the ground is sodden or rock hard, it won’t do any harm to sheuch, or heel in, the tree till you can plant.
Simply make a trench deep enough to cover the roots or use a large pot, keeping soil or compost moist and frost-free.
A tree needs some, but not too much air or moisture, so the ground needs to be friable, but not dense or clayey. If planting in grass, keep the ground immediately round about free of grass.
This prevents the grass from competing for moisture and nutrients.
Planting depth depends on the tree, but as a basic rule the roots should sit comfortably within the hole and be covered with around 5cm of soil.
Loose earth inevitably sinks, so this generous covering ensures roots won’t be exposed. Fruit trees and some shrubs are grafted on rootstocks and this join should always be above soil level.
The hole should be wide enough for you to spread out the roots so they don’t quite touch the sides.
I always like to dig a hole a day in advance so you’ll see if the ground is too wet and the hole attracts water from nearby. Especially with heavy or clay ground, spike the base of the hole with a fork to allow for good drainage.
Do not fertilise the soil. Roots will be less likely to spread from a richer spot to the surrounding area so you’d prevent good root formation.
Much better to sprinkle rootgrow in the hole. This contains mycorrhizal fungi which stimulate root growth.
Before planting, I rehydrate the roots by soaking in water for a couple of hours.
I then place the tree on a mound of friable soil at the bottom of the hole, gently teasing the moist roots apart and spreading them round the mound.
Then backfill with the excavated soil. Ideally, one person should hold and gently shake the tree while the roots are being covered. This lets soil settle evenly and prevents air pockets.
Then tamp down firmly. Close to the planting hole, sink a 4.5 x 4.5cm post diagonally to a depth of 45cm and attach with a tree tie. Only do this in exposed areas.
Plant of the week
Rosa rugosa ‘Alba’ produces huge bright red hips the size of a cherry tomato. The best for rosehip recipes.
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